Fragrance Families – Classification of Perfume

New fabulous perfumes and fragrances are constantly being created and produced.  To make it easier for the consumer, a group of perfumers decided to draw up a classification of perfume types.  Headed by Jean Kerleo, Jean Patou’s perfumer, seven fragrance families were defined in 1990.  Each family has been further divided into smaller families, allowing a more precise identification of the personality of each fragrance.  This classification includes all men’s and women’s fragrances including the oldest, being Eau de Cologne 4711 by Mulhens.

Fragrance classification is very useful in providing the consumer with a guide when choosing a new fragrance, which can be a notoriously difficult task!  Classification by family makes the consumer’s choice less complicated.  For instance, if you have a perfume you like, but want a change, you can find ideas for new fragrances in the same family.  In this way you can be sure of finding the same basic notes which you like in another perfume, but with a subtle difference.  Each subtlety is the key to making every fragrance so individual.

Once a year, this classification is updated to include new fragrances and to reflect new sub-classifications.  Fragrance families change and evolve with the times and with consumers’ tastes.  Classifications vary between countries.

Fragrance families defined:

1. Floral:  is the largest and most recognized family of fragrances, displaying an accord of different Floral notes.  Created from the essential oils of flowers, perfumes in this family can be further characterized by a Single Floral, depicting one particular Floral note, such as tuberose, or a Floral in combination with other notes, such as floral fresh, or floral-fruity-fresh.  Floral is the most feminine of all fragrance families often evoking memories of romantic moments.  ‘Joy’ (1935) by Jean Patou,  ‘L’air du Temps’ (1947) by Nina Ricci, and ‘Anais Anais’ (1979) by Cacharel, are classified as a Floral Bouquet.

2. Citrus:  are light fresh fragrances with the character of Citrus notes such as bergamot, orange, lemon, petitgrain and mandarin.  They are often combined with more feminine notes like flowers, fruits and chypre.  Citrus fragrances are refreshing for the sporty energetic woman.  They are appropriate for office wear, day wear and perfect for summer.  Citrus fragrances include:  ‘Bulgari’ for Her (1992) by Bulgari, ‘Eau de Guerlain’ pour Homme(1974) by Guerlain and ‘’Boucheron for Him (1991) by Boucheron.

3. Green:  is the most recent addition to the group.  Green notes are natural in character, based on a blending of herbs, ferns, mosses and citrus fruits.  The word Green mainly describes the scent of lush forests, meadows leaves and grasslands.  Green fragrances can be further divided into two groups:  Fresh and Balsamic.  Balsamics introduce a softer, sweeter fragrance of resins and balsams.  Famous Green scents include: ‘Chanel No.19’ (1970) by Chanel and ‘Sung’ (1989) by Alfred Sung.

4. Chypre:  Perfumes in this family are rich and long lasting.  They are based on a Floral or Green, grassy fragrance with a deep base note, such as ambergris or bergamot.  These fragrances are very elegant and classical, smelling slightly dry, not very sweet.  ‘Mitsouko’ (1919) by Guerlain, and ‘Cristalle’ (1974) by Chanel are classified as a Fruity Chypre.

5. Aldehyde:  is an important group of chemicals, derived from alcohol and some natural plant materials.  These benzenoid compounds, discovered in the late 19^th century, are used in manufacturing synthetic materials for modern perfumes.  They are organic chemicals consisting of carbon, hydrogen and oxygen.  Aldehydes have a powerful diffusive effect.  Aldehyde-type fragrances are characterized by a rich opulent top note.  In minute quantities, aldehydes are of great value to the perfumer providing fragrances with a new richness and strength.  These fragrances are regarded as sophisticated and modern.  The use of aldehydes in perfumes was developed by Ernest Beaux for Chanel, leading to the first aldehydic perfume – ‘Chanel No. 5’(1921).  ‘First’ (1976) by Van Cleef and Arpels also falls into the aldehydic family.

6. Oriental:  also known as Amber, these fragrances are heavy, rich and dramatic.  They are spicy and exotic with a distinctive heavy sweetness obtained from base notes such as musk, sandalwood, and vanilla.  These are luxurious, mysterious and sensual fragrances suitable for romantic and evening wear.  The first Oriental fragrance was ‘Jicky’ by Guerlain in 1889.  One century later, in 1989, Guerlain introduced ‘Samsara’, also an Oriental.

7. Fougere:  are predominantly masculine scents.  These fragrances have a fresh, herbal, lavender character with mossy and Chypre like base notes.  ‘Old Spice’ (1935) by Shulton and ‘Stetson’ (1981) by Stetson Coty fall into the Fougere category.

8. Leather/Tobacco:  typically masculine, this family of fragrances is reminiscent of tobacco and/or leather with a woody, spicy base note.  Flowers, woods and balsam create the warm and sensual tobacco blend.  ‘English Leather’ (1949) by Mem Company and ‘Royal Copenhagen’ (1970) by Swank are Leather/Tobacco scents.

9. Oceanic:  are fresh scented, slightly soapy, clean fragrances.  They are mainly sporty, young and energetic style fragrances.  ‘Leau d’Issey’ (1992) by Issey Miyake is an Oceanic.

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